I like the Tinnerman, AN6195-8Z-1D, nut plates. They get riveted on with 3/32" flat head, countersunk, rivets. Nut plates with an elastic stop nut are nice where you are not removing the screw very often. For something like the cowling, sheet metal screws with these nuts keep working longer.
Installing them is easy. I make a template from a piece of galvanized steel. I have 3/16 holes in the flange so I made the center hole in the template 3/16". The rivet holes are 3/32".
I found the Cleco clamp was out of my way in the back. I used a regular 3/16" washer for a spacer between the flange and my template.
By using the spacer, my automatic center punch fit snugly in the rivet holes of my template. This way I can just hold the template from moving and mark both holes quickly.
The Whitney punch works perfect for making the rivet holes in the flange. Normally I would then drill the holes with a # 40 drill to open them to just fit the rivets. There's no need to do that since The holes open up slightly when dimpling them for the flat head rivets.
The 3/32" dimpling tool for my rivet squeezer has a rivet shaped punch and a matching die. Adjust them so they are closed tight just before the handle closes completely.
Because the nut plates are dimpled for the flat head rivets we can dimple the holes rather than countersink them with a drill bit style cutter. Much quicker, easier and no mess.
To squeeze the rivets we just need two flat anvils.
Use a 3/32" Cleco to hold the nut in place at one hole. The dimple on the other end will keep the free end aligned while you rivet it.
Squeeze the rivet, very easy with 3/32" rivets, and do the second rivet.
I've used a 3/16" long rivet which works nice for the nut plates. A 1/4" long rivet tends to bend when squeezing it.
There's a screw very couple inches, so there are 32 screw around the flange.
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